You should be able to protect yoursystem with a hard Limiter.

And you should have fuses that pop before your shit blows.

DBX 166xl will do the trick. Or get a driverack/ultradrive to do everything for you.

You just need a good basic compressor/limiter. And I'd check the crossover point for the subs. If you have it too high it can be a real problem.

On a side note, what models are the amps/subs you're running? And have you considered going to an active sub to prevent your amp from overpowering your sub? (or maybe just turning down the amp?)

In other words, it might be a 'you need more subs/different subs' instead of signal problem.

Im running an EV 3000 on a pair of JBL Mpro 255's. I want to get EV dual 18's but dont have the cash, so now im sending 1200 watts into a 1000 watt cabinet. So a hard limiter and better subs would ensure me not going broke always replacing blown cones?

What's the crossover point set to and what's the slope?

My guess is that the 1200 watts into the 1000 watt cabinet isn't the issue (and is the 1000 watts peak or program?).

I've run approx TWICE the rated program power into speakers with no problems. But it has to be CLEAN. I'd bet that you're clipping somewhere and/or the crossover slope isn't very steep/set WAY too high.

Even inaudible clipping can kill an amp... trust me on this...

definitely get an outboard compressor/hard limiter & get a good audio tech to set it for you. Let him tell you how far up you can run your mixer's master level before it really starts sucking! :)

Word. We have a DBX 266XL. I wouldn't buy any Behringer products, but a Driverack PA is a smart move too. If I had to start over, I'd do the Driverack fo sho. Grab a Furman to clean the power if you don't have one already.

Save yourself $250 and go with the Behringer DEQ2496:
www.behringer.com

I picked one up WITH the RTA mic for under $350 recently.

Why Behringer? And why this unit?

I did the research... and this unit is one of the sneaky gems in what might otherwise be a long stream of products with questionable build quality. Add in the fact that is has MORE features than the DBX and also adds more graphic EQ channels (DBX has 29, DEQ 31). The DEQ also has a 61 band RTA EQ that works at the same time as the 31 band graphic EQ.

For some reviews on the unit:
reviews.harmony-central.com

No, it's not easy to set up if you've never used anything this fancy before but it's a great product that works wonderfully. I'm going to pull it out of my rack and use it at my next gig (this Saturday). Should prove to be a real blast!

So what do I need for a bi-amped system with a crossover, do i need a Driverack, Limiter, or compressor? I need 4 xlr outputs , 2 for highs, 2 for subs. All this information is defin. helpful, but I want to make sure I do this right without breaking the bank, or my speakers again.

thanks
Betow

Meister, I got a question....

Do you ever buy anything that is not.....how should I say this.... strange? I mean Torq, Technic SL-DZ1200 CD players, Tascam Mixwells, Karaokes and now these Behringers you are talking about......Come on man!!!! I hate to see your taste in women. Maybe I should just ask Julls. lol.

Opps, I mean 4 XLR inputs L&R channel per amp.

Yes, sometimes I buy something that's not strange. Remember, I started my DJ business on karaoke. I spent a LOT on karaoke equipment and my karaoke library kick ass (just ask Julls). I moved to DJ'ing when I realized I could haul a fraction of the gear and make more money. I also wouldn't have to deal with drunks damaging my gear. The SLDZ's are awesome! Sure, some early models had some problems but if you want vinyl feel from a rock solid unit you can either deal with the headaches of the updates on the S3500 or go with the SLDZ's. The CDX/HDX don't count - not rock solid. The CDJ's don't off an active spinning platter - so it's not 'vinyl feel'... I consider it 'nice try'.

Torq? Well, I needed an ASIO sound card... and I wanted MIDI control. And software that supported ASIO sound (for when I move to a d.4 or similar mixer). Serato just didn't cut the mustard. Sure, it's great. I've used it. I even LIKE it. But the additional features and price on Torq won in the end for me. And no, it's not for everyone... I still recommend Serato to some people.

The TASCAM's? $99 for a $299 CD player that's pretty sweet? Ask Julls - I loaned him one.

The Behringer? It was actually recommended to Julls by someone else. I did some reasearch and they recommendation was a very good one. It has MORE features than the driverack pa for a fraction of the price. I couldn't help but go with the Behringer.

I just buy what will work best for me based on the price and features. Sometimes I kick myself - like the KRK Rokit 6SE's I bought. I should have gone with the M-Audio EX66's which are 10x the monitor.

I just call 'em like I see's 'em.... ;-)

When a company puts out questionable products, I have no choice but to second guess everything else they make. Stanton? Numark? Whatever. DBX is a brand I can trust. To each his own... that's why I own Serato. I'll pay the extra $$$ if it'll last me the lifetime of 2 cheap units. I learned that when I bought Technics after going through countless other brands.

www.behringer.com

that's what he was referring to.

I have a Driverack PA - along with a Furman power conditioner, and yes they cost money - but they also saved my ass on more than one occasion.

This one:
www.behringer.com

And no, it doesn't have a crossover. It does have a limiter/compression.

Keep in mind I don't need a crossover.... short of that, I have everything the Driverack PA has, plus some.
www.behringerdownload.de


Because he already has a crossover he wouldn't need the one build in the Driverack. He's just put the Behringer in the change before the crossover to get all the effects.

I believe your problem has to do with power. I have used all kind of amps for the last 25 years. Your subs are power greedy and a Peavey amp rated at 1200 watts is not going to cut it.Your amp is clipping at high volume levels and it's sending distorted signal to your subs causing damage to the cones or the coils. Try using an amp rated at 2000 to 3000 watts rms, I am pretty sure you wont have this problem again, of course you can't go crazy on your gain buttons but it should sound better and work more efficiently.

You do realize that this thread is almost that old too right?!? At least half-way.

:) sound is timeless. of course it is an old thread.