What's going on with your faders? As nobspangle posted above, the non-contact faders should never wear out.
Taken from the Rane FAQ:
Quote:
*How can I order a spare fader for my TTM 56?
We do not sell the complete fader for this mixer. It is not necessary to replace the entire fader. As a service spare part, the carrier assembly (part number 13188) is available. it consists of the Delrin housing, with magnet installed and pre-aligned torsion spring. This three-piece entity is all that will be necessary for field repairs. Any work beyond replacement of the carrier needs to be done here at the Rane factory. TTM 56 mixers are Factory Service Only so parts and schematics are not available outside the factory.
*The fader doesn't feel right. It seems to stick or bounce back a little. What can I do? Can I take out the spring or adjust it?
Oiling is the best way to address a fader drag problem. Remove the face plate and apply lubricant to the support rod near the spring. If the rod is dirty, carefully clean with a lint free cloth before lubricating. A great way to polish the rods and remove accumulated contaminants is to tear off a strip of newspaper wide enough to fit around the exposed length of rod, and wrap it around the shaft. Then you can pull strip back and forth to buff the rod (think of it like polishing a shoe, but in reverse). Once this is done, the dirt will have been wiped away and a clean stainless shaft is ready for oiling. We recommend true silicone lubricant, commonly available at hardware stores and automotive parts retailers. Sewing machine oil is probably okay. Bending the spring may permanently damage it, and will void your warranty. When performing any maintenance, use common sense and proceed very carefully.
For those who wish to obtain almost zero drag on the fader, gently push the spring downwards towards the circuit board, and rotate out from under the rod, then release. The spring will be above the rod and not making contact. This setting allows the fader to move more easily. This can make controlled fading difficult, because the fader moves freely when released. You will not hurt the fader operating it this way. Small mechanical parts are easily damaged, so use care when lubricating or moving the spring.
*I cleaned / lubricated the fader and it feels better, but now it won't turn off all the way (bleeds) when I have the contour set to fastest cutoff. What happened?
The hall sensor got pushed (bent) and is now too far from the magnet. Look for a small black plastic device --- about 1/8" square --- just below the rods at each end of the fader, mounted on the circuit board. It needs to be perpendicular to the PCB. If the sensor has been "bumped" during cleaning / lubrication, then it will not be close enough for the magnet to "turn off" the fader completely, resulting in bleed. Fix the problem by gently bending the sensor towards the middle of the fader, closer to the magnet. It doesn't take much movement to get it correct, so proceed carefully. A paper clip used gently works well, as will a very small screwdriver. If you break the sensor off, you'll need to get another fader so be extra cautious.
