Whats with the difference in the apperance and what does everyone elses look like that have purchased one recently??????



My old one looked like this..... which is almost 3 years older..
web.sccoast.net



And the new one which i just bought from agiprodj.com which has a date sticker on the bottom from rane that says it was made in 3/12 looks slightly different as you can see...

web.sccoast.net



as you can see the graphics on the faders are diffrerent and the big red box around the group buttons...Also the buttons are recessed on the new one and the old one wasnt....

the buttons look like the ones that were on the original released version but not saw any with those graphics before....

like the red box round the serato controls but looks something is missing due to no logos in that box now....

i wonder if this new version has improved on the b button problem? i'd like to hear what a rane rep would have to say about this

they will probably tell you to "de-ox-it"

There's a couple difference that aren't cosmetic as well. For instance, the gain knobs now 'snap to' the 0 mark, whereas the old one (which I have) has no such feature. I ended up spinning with a buddy at a club and he brought out his 57SL which was the newer model. Another thing I noticed is the recessed buttons seem to respond better. I have to push hard on mine compared to how little pressure you have to use on the new ones.

looks like they made some secret improvements!

they did the same with the sl1 box theres a new one and old one..

new one: www.rane-dj.de
old one: i.ytimg.com

regarding the ttm57
you got it backwards dude. the new one is in the first pic, the old one is the latter

Naw, wicked223 didnt get it backwards. Looks like Serato went backwards on the buttons (which is good because those buttons are more responsive without deoxit!)
Notice the new ScratchLive logo with the older recessive buttons.

can someone clue me in about deoxit? I'd love to get my buttons responsive again. Is there a thread I missed?

seek and ye shall find...

Didn't find anything talking about how it applied successfully, where to get it locally, etc.

the guys from Rane seem to swear by it...

great thread but we need someone who knows and tell us more info..

+1

best way is just to send the mixer in and have it repaired. I tried the deoxit and it didn't work. sent it in and came back better than new...

How fast did you get it back? I can't be without it for long, got lots of gigs going on and no backup mixer.

I sent it out on a Monday and it came back that Thursday....how's that for fast?

nice!

Hi folks,

Yep, we changed to new button caps (all B buttons) and changed to new potentiometers in all 18 places.

The new button caps are not exactly the same cap as the very old ones, but they are extremely similar. They are concave and slightly larger in circumference than the most recent previous caps. This makes it slightly easier to hit but (hopefully) without cramming them together too much for those with large or clumsy/drunk fingers. This also required the hole in the metal to be enlarged to support the new button cap. This means you cannot get new caps and fit them on older mixers. But the underlying mechanics of these buttons/switches is unchanged. Despite a minority of vocal DJs (thanks for communicating with us so well on this topic too), these switches continue to perform well over lots and lots of products. And yes, O.B.1, I will tell people to De-ox them if they become intermittent. We have proved over and over again with many many units (thousands of switches), that oxidation is the cause that's thankfully easily fixed in the field. The trick is getting the Deoxit F5 (which is what we use) to where the oxidation is. Those who have trouble getting the Deoxit into the proper place can send their mixer to us and we'll clean them up like they're brand new and tune up lots of other things while we're at it.

We also changed all 18 potentiometers to a more robust, stronger shaft, longer-lasting part. This also changed the hole size in the metal and changed the holes in the PCB which means you cannot get the new pots into an old mixer.

And you've noticed the new cosmetics. This is more in-line with the most recent branding and logo use found most everywhere. (It'll also happen to make it easier for us to figure out which version of the hardware folks have when we chat with them on the phone.)

Keep up the great work!

Coolio, thanks for the updates.


That's my only gripe with the new design... on the crossfader scale I am missing a visible middle marker like you had on the old design. This may not be much of an issue on the 57 cause it is build symmetrical, but on the 68 (which does not have a symmetrical layout) it is hard to see the exact middle of the fader. This is an issue especially when using VSL where the fader has to be in the exact middle for various transition effects.

I hope you guys can follow me :)

I was ripped a new one (luckily I had my protection on today) by the designer of the 57 with my above post by implying Deoxit is still needed on new mixer buttons. The problem with switch oxidation was fixed almost immediately in production units after we received some early complaints. There are units from a certain era that may need it occasionally - thus the occasional query on this topic. Luckily, I don't need my protection often.

The switches should now look right, feel right and remain trouble free.

thanks for letting us know. i've been on the fence about getting a 57 b/c of the b-button issue but now that it's fixed i'm gonna grab one.

It's been fixed for years. It just shows you how powerful perception is.

You guys rock, as always, Steve M!

hey steve, when do you think theyll upgrade the sound card?

THANKS I ALREADY CALLED RANE BECAUSE NO ONE HAD ANY REAL CLUE AND IT WAS BUGGING THE SHIT OUT OF ME. And got the same answer. So thanks for clearing it up for us.

PS the new cosmetics make it look cheap.. especially the fader contour graphics...i dig the new buttons though..

Just my 2 cents..

it's just more of an industrial, minimalist design. i like the old one better too, but as long as it sounds good and is durable i'm sold

No plans currently. But what is it, in your opinion, about the "sound card" performance that needs an upgrade?

agreed

can someone please clarify which is the newer model? the post says that this mixer (picture below) is the old one, and someone stated that it was the other way around, i bought mine 6 months ago, and its identical to the one below, thanks

www.airportcircle.com

looks like the 2nd gen one. I have the same one.

theres a 3rd gen one now..

web.sccoast.net

THIS IS is the picture of the mixer i was shipped not even 2 weeks ago for those that are still confused by the speculation.....

I noticed the difference because i had one already and knew something was different and posted this thinking it was a well known thing or whatever......

. After a couple weeks nobody here seemed to have any real idea either. i was getttin sketched a bit but apparently i must have been just one of the first of the new versions sold.

Steve M finially ended the speculation by stating they made quite a few changes and the picture of the one above is the latest which i guess wasnt a big deal to give us the heads up on. Think maybe they should have released a new picture for distro to update or something at least.

So i wanted to get the 411 out because im not the only person anal about my shit..And some people still seem to be confused...


I wont be the only one to notice that your brand new mixer is slightly different looking then what you see in all the photos online or different looking than what your homeboys may look like and get curious george.

I was hoping this update may be able to add 3 decks. I actually cant tell the difference with sl1 or sl3

if you play on a bigger soundsytem you can def hear the difference between the sl1 and the sl3

how about the difference between a '57 and SL3?

i haven't been able to compare those two in the same environment. i've read that the 57 and sl3 sound pretty similar though

honestly I can't tell the difference between keylock and no keylock...

For more about the differences between the 57 and the SL3, performance-wise, see this: www.scratchlive.net

will there be a way to upgrade our potentiometers, new face plate and new potentiometers if we have the so called V.2 ?

IDK about the fix for the buttons my mixer is new and still have trouble with them sometimes

all my buttons were working well til i read this post,now my right flex isnt obeying! lol

JINX!
-you owe me a coke...


really it's only my B1 Buttton but my flex FX work flawless...

p.s. I'll have a crown on the rocks...

Hi guys, i just purchased a new TTM 57SL from UK, and seems an old model due the layout is the following www.airportcircle.com

There is a way to known wich is the new one or the old one ?

I think that checking the serial number can help.
Hi Steve, can you sed us more details ?

The new one has the red outline around the Scratch Live controls.

thanks Steve ..
so unfortunately until now .. the old model are still present on seller .. :(

did you buy it from an authorize dealer? cause if its a little store most likely they'll have to sell all the units in stock before they get the newer model, my $0.02

I purchased here : www.htfr.com
Seems a good UK seller ...

When was released the new model ?

www.htfr.com

a known flaw in the button "cover" design which is now corrected into the same "part number" not a new model so speakingly... and no "warranty" changeover for the v1 and v2 owners?

So i'm stuck with these buttons that stick, don't work, or are intermittent. I have to spray my thing monthly while others don't?....

intermittent b1-b6 buttons are one thing but when a lowpass "KILL" sticks in the middle of a gig for me and won't turn off, seems to be a big issue, this happened to me my 2nd month of owning my 57. i literally had to play 2 hours at a company private party by bringing in the left track and then instant doubling it onto the non crippled channel.

I would hope i could get this new button design without having to pay.... obviously its not a new 57 model, just has some revisions. so the trade my sl1 for sl3 argument with a buy out program is not my approach here....

Just think its funny....

I do appreciate the hard work rane, but after dropping a pretty penny on something that should perform to professional standards yet has a flaw like a behringer product and then its "silently" fixed, kind of gets on my nerves.. Especially when all the users of the 57 have the same issues and feedback... its kind of like a recall on a car if the dashboard keeps squeeking, or the suspension has a flaw which requires constant attention... but thats just me...

I just used a red marker to go around the Scratch Live controls. :)

lol

no orange sixxx?

I don't think the newer version has made it to the uk yet, i also just got one in from UK last week and it is not the new version, i knew this went i bought it, the guy in the shop did not even know about a newer version, well either that or they are not saying til they sell the old stock.

Hi,

Just a question. What era are you referring to ? Is it just generation 1 mixers or are generation 2 possibly affected, or just some batches ? I have recently got a gen 2 and would like to know if this problem is a possibilty in the future.

Thanks

Hi Steve .. it is true that in UK the new model is not available ?

The new model is available worldwide. The trouble (as has been discussed above) is that dealers may still have stock of the old model in their warehouses. Have a dealer order you a new model specifically. If they are unwilling, you should find yourself a better dealer. Some dealer a lame, others kick butt. You get what you pay for.

Could you please tell me when was version 3 of the Mixer (red outline) released?

March 2010

version 3 ????
hmmmm I fogot somethings

forgot

so is there a difference between version 1 and 2? how can we tell, and what are the goodies on version 2? thanks in advance

Version 1 and 2 you can see the difference on the group buttons, concave is version 1 and convex version 2.

Now with this new version it looks like they went to the concave buttons.

Goodies on version 2 is that the buttons were improved. Version 3 improved over verison 2....

These new buttons.... are they free?

Thanks, I'm new too

New buttons are slightly larger in diameter so they will not fit versions 1 & 2. Read up a couple of posts, according to Rane the older version should be ok and I can confirm that with my mixer!

yea its real OK when there are flaws with how the oxidation happens... i could see in 2 years of use but weekly use and such? :-/

Like driving a car in the rain and the weatherstripping starts leaking because they are being used in the rain/snow.. etc. (aka weather)... maybe after 5-6+ years they fail but no the first 2 weeks you own the ride.. (i know this is a mixer and not a car but really, the buttons fail after 2+ weeks of use and have to be up-kept on the daily)...

Thank god the fader magnets don't have to be adjusted before every gig ;)

Was there a better usb port put in?

USB remains the same

because they put a better usb inside the sl3 so why not on the ttm 57sl

My guess is to coerce us into upgrading to the 68. Especially since USB 1.1 is a 9 year old protocol which (correct me if I'm wrong) almost no devices being sold today still use.

correction: USB 2.0 is a 9 year old protocol. USB 1.1 was actually finalized in 1998.

let's say they upgrade to a USB 2.0 on the 57sl, what advantages will that bring to the mixer as is?

yes 2.0 is 9 years old.

There are no advantages to putting a 2.0 USB port on the 57 (otherwise we would). Unless you guys consider a more expensive device with no additional features an advantage? ; )

My question is did you guys make the usb stronger like you did on the sl3 because after a many uses it starts to get weak

I have a question for one of the Rane Moderators...if i purchase a new 57sl from a store like Guitar Center, will I get a newer style mixer?

check the manufacturing date on the box at guitar center before you pay for it.

Sorry, my GC Wonder Twin Powers to auto-detect GC's inventory at both their hundreds of individual store locations, and at the their US distribution center in Ohio(?) are not currently working. In fact, no one here at the Rane factory has the ESP or access to the knowledge of what and where GC sends its inventory. <yes, I'm being a smart ass ; ) >

You might try asking at a GC. What you should check on the Rane box is the Rane part number, which for the latest version of the 57 is - 18788.

The 57 USB jack has not changed.

thanks

Why wouldn't that enable us to use the third virtual deck? I thought the whole reason you block it from being used is because of the lack of throughput with your USB 1.1 jack.

so if i`m waiting for a new shipment from rane (i`m from israel) any chance that i`ll get the old one?

i got my new 57sl...had them get me one with 18788 on the box :)

I bought a 57 the other day, loving it.

It was the new one and I'm in Brisbane, Australia.

I just got my 57 on Wednesday. I'm in South Africa and I got the new model...

what a lucky guy!!!! in 5 days the world cup will start!! :)

Looking forward to Germany vs. USA.

Wow, how did that happen. USA qualified for the Soccer World Cup??

c'mon nik, USA plays decent ball. Not sure if you're being sarcastic or not.

hahahaha

last worldcup my favorite game was italy vs. USA, they beat the shit out of each other lol

US is as decent as the German team is decent at playing basketball.

LOL! The soccer is going to interesting!

Brazil vs Portugal - this is the game i cant wait to see.

Word ;)

well back @ the usb issue is the new i chips on mac and pc are curentlly not workin properlly with usb 1.1 hardware ase we all read in previous threds here. Now I wanna Buy a new mac book pro with all the goodies but what if it dosent work properlly with my ttm 57sl we all know that the sl3 and the 68 has usb 2.0 and works wonders. I have no intrest in the therd V. deck Nice but dont need it. I also dont think its right for a big company like rane should know about a problem and not have it fixd. My ttm 57sl is 7 months old and the b bottons never workd like a top of the line mixer that this shoul be. we all Payd Top Dollars for this mixer we All Deseve A top of the line Product Not a Dicent Mixer With a Crapy B Bottons. and even worst Having to Pay To Get it Fixed when the product was defective since the Factory. Its not like I abused of it and now its not working. My Mixer is in Mint Conditions but the B Bottons Dont work or they stick. De Ox it My Ass!!! No disreaspect to You Rane Guys But even U guys Know its true... then to top it off they fixd it with a slightlly larger botton. Ok fine heres what I think Rane Should do: Replace all are B Bottons since they sold us a diffective produt and change the faceplate since they want it to be smart. O and by the way the decals on the V1 and the V2 looks way more profetional than the V3. the v3 looks cheap even though its bottons are better.

I have the newest macbook you can get with the i7 and everything works fine for me.

Do the buttons work better on the new 57. My 57 about 2 yrs old ,the master cue and all the other buttons seem not to work ever time they are pushed, and it seems like they have been like this forever. Im sure others have found this to be true.

You know what would be so cool. If you could switch the master cur button to split mode(one deck left head phone,other deck right head phone).

I feel its a firmware thing, but probly not.....

What you're asking for is called 'split cue' and we've asked for it forever. I think it's something that would need to be changed in hardware.

the 68 has split cue:( but I really dont need it anymore, anywho
!

"fixed for years" i dunno....i have a v2 57SL with intermittent/lagging buttons. can never rely on them for precise triggering

If it still under warranty, send it it to Rane. They will take care of you!

Ok My Niggz! Ive been using PB Blaster to deoxidize & lube my Faders buttons, relays and a hole lot more ever since a friend of mine told me about it at first I was Squeptical of course Iv known PB as like a WD-40 penetrating lube for rusted or stubern nuts and bolts. you can find it in any Advance auto or pepboys for about 5-6 bucks. the way I doit is I get a small plastic cup like a shot cup and a mixing straw spray some lube in the cup and dip the staw in bout a quarter inch no more then cover the other side of the straw with your finger. place the end of the straw were ur going to clean deoxid or lube and let go of the finger almost like using a droper only the mixing straw fits any ware. do this just once a month or as needed depending on how much you use it. Note like dexit d5 you might expirience some sticking if your using it on faders but that well go away after an hr or much less.

My Bad Dioxit D5 is used once a month or so But PB is used once then reuse if you feel the need too. I fixd all my Faders and bottons with one aplication going on 3 months and still working way better than new.

So if I have the option do I buy a new 57 at full price or try to break down the dealer for the last gen model? ^_^

to whom it may concern... looks like a fairly good deal... not sure if its the V.2 though:

thedjhookup.com

Im thinking about buying the 57 and want to get the most updated version. How would I know that the mixer is the most updated version and can you hook up more than 2 tables like the SL3 or SL4.. What are the obvious indicators when odering the 57

Only 2 turntables in the 57 and ask for a third gen. You can tell the difference by the red outline around the eq knobs and the "art" around the fader channel volumes is different,see the pics on the first posts ^^^^^^

Interesting to learn about the generations of the 57 I checked my box out and I see my number is 19353

so how much should i pay for a 2nd hand 1st/2nd gen ?
i see the latest one's going for £720.

anyone?

I wouldnt pay more than 900 dollars for one, dont know how much is in pounds...

ok cool thanks for that.that works out to around £560.

:) good luck!

cheers.

the serial number on the base of the is (21) 00674966
so is it a MK1 or 2 ?

oops ........base of the mixer.

This is the mark 2 - the "middle" version of the 22 Group buttons. The ones that are flat and the smallest diameter of the three incarnations.

This unit shipped in June 2009 to the UK.

thanks Steve that's a great help,
the more i think about it i might just get a new mk3,are the mk3 shipping to UK yet?

wait... the 3 different ttm57's come in 3 different sizes??

No, just the buttons come in different sizes.

Mark 3 has been shipping since June worldwide. Since some dealers may still have new stock of the Mark 2 version, If you want to be sure you're getting the Mark 3 version, one of two things to check: Either be sure the Rane part number on the white sticker on two sides of the shipping box is 19353. Or the Lexan top cover has the red outline around the Scratch Live controls.

ohh cool!! :)

Here is the picture of the MK3. Notice the red outline.

flic.kr

btw. Thats my son learning to spin, he is 3.

Your son is looking good, man. Great hand position. I'd wait a little while with him before combining spinning with the Jack Daniels though! : )

lol. Thanks. I didnt even teach him anything. He would look what I'm doing. Then he'd just bump me out the way.

Question? Is the 3rd edition the only one with the red line or do both the 2nd and 3rd edition have the red outline?

only the third

terrible1fi types the truth.

+1111

serato.com

So is it possible that Rane will be making replacement buttons that are concave for the version 1 model at all? So that way we can just buy those and replace them ourselves? Or are we stuck w/ the convex buttons?

i think we are stuck with the reject buttons....

There is no upgrade option for the version 1 mixers.