question for you all, is the innofader better than the Rane faders? If I am slowly trying to teach myself to scratch, would an innofader be better?

I'd like some input from anyone who has used this fader. Thanks.

hey sixxx, what do you want to know about the innofader?

i betatested one of the first ones and worked with releasing the finished product. i have or have owned almost every fader on the market, if not i have used them. by all means, the rane magnetic is a good fader, however, its a love or hate type of situation. i think it takes some getting used to with the rane, but the innofader has more of a natural feel to it.

personally, i can perform just as well on both faders, but thats because i've owned the 56 for 3 years and scratched on it almost everyday.. and i know i'm not the only one whose rane faders stick to the sides...

i played with it quite a bit over the 4 days at NAMM (i think elliot got tired of having me in the booth..lol). i actually convinced him to sell me a demo unit so i could try it out in my V6 (which works great BTW). anyways...i have to say that i love this fader. i'll try and post an in-depth review of my experience with it over the weekend.

here's a few pics i posted in the NAMM thread...

the InnoFader in the AEM100
www.djfeniks.com

a closeup view...
www.djfeniks.com

...and in my V6
www.djfeniks.com


you should also check out DJ Philly's video
www.youtube.com view

whats going on here? my question is, would the innofader be a good investment and would it help the learning curve of a noob scracther like myself.

*Scratcher

yes, you will be ab le to get down techniques that you can't on whatever mixer. however, you may not want to be spoiled to such good fader. I assume your on a ttm56/57? the cut off is sharper, but not as drastic of a change as if you were coming from a lower end mixer.

i've been using high end mixers for so long (rane, ecler, or whatever with an innofader) that when i get on a factory vestax, i can't perform as well. sad much? maybe but can't blame me for being picky.

Does the innofader have an auto-mix function?

thanks you Philly. yes i am on the 56. I love it, I just noticed the last time i played on a 909, my cuts were WAY cleaner. I appreciate the info!

they need to put the innofader on all pioneers. lots of clubs use the pionner 800 and it would be nice to have a good scratch fader with that mixer.

i want the pioneer 800 + innofader so bad, so whos going to sell it to clubs? lol www.youtube.com view

I went from a Pioneer 707/909 to a 56 and I noticed right away the cut in time is very different. The 56 took a day getting used to, it doesnt cut in as sharp as the 707. Visually its a couple of millimeters difference, but its enough to change the sound. Once I got used to the 56 though the scratches were on point again. Really you dont need a special fader to do great scratches. Im sure qbert could do the same scratches on a 10 year old vestax mixer.

I would want this innofader if I had to use a mixer like the 800 though.

Sorry for jacking the thread a little, but I have a 707 and been thinking bout switching to a 56. Did you like this change? any pros or cons on the two other then stated above?

The Xfader on Rane mixers are lighter but the adjustment curve shoudnt take too long at all. I went from Vestax 07 ---> Empath ---> 56

I actually like the layout and adjustment on the 707 more than the 56. First you can adjust the tension on the fader to be feather light or super stiff. The up faders also have a better curve adjustment than the 56, great for stabs. The outputs are also even wether you use RCA or XLR, unlike the 56. I also like the fact that I can change two of the inputs to either phono or line.

What I do like about the 56 is the full kill on the eq. I also like the headphone cue better which is one of the main reasons why I got it. The 707 cue just didnt sound very balanced to me. It was hard getting that sweet spot. The crossfader and curve adjustment is also shorter on the 56.

It really all depends on why you are making the switch and what you want the mixer to do.

If I could get an Innofader to fit my Denon DNX100 I wouldn't get rid of it. But since they specificaly mention that it doesn't fit that model I guess it has to go.

Sorry, I'm a n00b, but what mixers is the inno-fader campatible with. Sorry, i dont feel like GTMF at the moment

For those who thought they couldn't do the DJM 800 - it works beautifully on mine:

djforums.com

sol los: 707 to 56 is a good improvement ... especially the 56s, the internal universal power supply on the 56s is lovely. also, you get better channel faders as well. (my 707 channel faders started to bleed after about 6 months of doing a weekly) ... but you don't get XLR outputs on the 56/s

togtfo: the full list of compatible mixers can be viewed here innofader.com

I have an AEM-100i with the innofader built in. You can literally customize the fader to feel and cut however you want; it's that good.

I also have the AEM-100i, after playing with Vestax for a few years. My understanding and confirmation is that has a "Pro-X Fader" (opened it up to clean and it looks nothing like the InnoFader), mine just wore out after a year of heavy scratchin'. I plan to replace it with the InnoFader and will be back to provide feedback after a month of usage.

I just installed an Innofader on my 800 as well. Love it!!!

Here are my 2 pennies Soprano

You want to learn more in the scratch realm.

Look at the dope ass cuts people were pulling off in the late 90's early 2000's.

They were using at best, a vestax fader.

Some fancy fader isn't going to make you become a better scratcher faster.

Scratching involve hand syncopation and timing.

So if you wanna flip the bill on the fader, by all means go for it but, the equipment is only as good as the DJ.
Basically, the innofader won't make a bad turntablist good, but it may make a good turntablist better.

I totally agree......Ive actually started taking some scratch lessons...

Just got mine about a month ago or so...Damn nice fader and well worth the bill and some change! BUY IT!

I don't understand what you mean when you say it feels "more natural." What does a natural fader feel like? I've used a bunch of mixers as well, but it's kinda hard to describe a feel of a fader through words and showing videos of scratching doesn't really do it either.

To me, the Pro X Fade was way too heavy. It reminded me of the Vestax PCV fader, but maybe a bit heavier. You could add weight to it, but I don't know why anyone would want to do that. It's heavy weight made it almost impossible to do scratches with fast clicks. The tension adjust was a joke. There was a screw that had no range in adjustment.

The cut on those old Vestax mixers seem very far compared to the 56/57. Personally, I think Rane got it right. The 707/909 is a good fader as well, but I like that there is *some* curve in the Rane fader vs. a harsh on/off like the Pioneer. However, the resistance on the Pioneer fader is nice. The resistance on the Rane mixers feel great as well, but if you lube the rails it gets too "loose" IMO.

I'm curious as to how "heavy" the weight of the innofader is (the actual fader) and how you adjust the cut-in + tension. I saw a picture of it with some screw diagrams on the actual fader body, but does this mean you have to adjust it outside of the mixer and then put the faceplate on? Does it have a hard [metal-feeling] click when hitting the edge or does it tap? Does the mixer's curve adjust still work with the fader? What about maintenance.. are there rails to lube or clean? Is it easy to disassemble?

I guess my last question is what most Rane owners would want to know... if you're happy with the current fader, could this possibly be an improvement over the stock Rane fader? If so, in what ways?

In the way that the fader feels more natural

Thank you. Exellent point.

Practice and learn on shithouse equipment. Become BETTER than your equipment.. then you can get the 'good' shit.

I'm not saying you need to learn on shithouse equipment, but I constantly hear DJ's saying "Oh its my equipment, it sucks. Thats why I can't scratch"


Uhhh no brutha...you can't scratch cuz you suck at scratching.

I know a dude in Seattle who's cuts are so crazy and clean. This dude is a straight up fucking hermit who's spent the last 15 years in a bedroom, just cutting and cutting and cutting and beatjuggling.

I dont think he'd win....but I really think he'd give someone like Q-Bert a run for his money.

Anyways....I had a P&G Crossfader in one of my mixers once and the cut in was horrible!!! It faded in probably about 1/4 of an inch.

This dude was cutting some of the CLEANEST cuts I've ever heard. I mean super clean! All on this fader.

Some fancy fader isn't going to make you better....sorry but thats the truph.

And that goes DOUBLE for all the damn people always asking "How many millimeters should the fader go out for crabbing" Hahahahaha!

good stuff here.... the innofader is basically like serato.... It will make a good DJ better nut it will not make a bad DJ good.. .


in a nut shell......nothing makes you better but practice.

Now it all makes sense! =P

the vestax 07 fader is still one of my favorites. i love the clicking sound on that fader.

my 56 fader sucks, prolly cause some drunk fool spilt their drink on my mixer. it hasn't been the same since, even after properly cleaning.

the 57 fader is nice, probably on par if not better than my 07.

in all, things have improved from the gemini scratch masters and realistic mixers. if you could cut on those tanks, then you could cut on anything. just practice.

isnt the 57 fader the same as the 56?

Yes, it is.

Does anyone know when the Rane adaper kits will be available ?

does anybody know if the innofader will cradle my balls while I juggle?

dude? wtf?

^^good one.

it's available now. just installed an innofader into my old 56 this morning. check the audio innovate store for details...

www.audioinnovate.com

www.djfeniks.com

www.djfeniks.com

i should mention...this is just for testing purposes. i'm not sure what you gain by swapping these out as the Rane faders are already the best on the market...IMHO. from my initial testing however, i do notice that the innofader seems to be a bit smoother on it's travel, especially with heavy scratching. the cut-in on the Rane faders is still better. i'll play with it a bit more and post some more details.

the rane faders are good but they have a very unique feel to them imo.

i heard the innofader had 0.5mm cut in time. My 57 is also very sharp cause i bent the magnet on the fader but i dont think its 0.5mm i know the 909 has a 1mm cut in time and thats sharp cant wait to get my hands on the innofader im gonna order mine today i'll let you guys know what i think of it...

Both the "Pro X Fade" and the "Innofader" are incomparable to any other fader out there. I have em both, I'm pretty sure the Innofader will fit more boards than the Pro X Fade though.

dope ass red plate homie
here's my AEM-100 with a swapped out fader (innofader)

c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com

i just bought blue as well.

Innofader>>>PXF for real.

you've prob seen this already but i'll post the link for those who haven't. nice unbiased review of the fader.

www.skratchworx.com

i git one for my ddm

ahhhhhh sweet!!!
is all i can say~!

@feniks: Actually you can adjust the curve and cut-in on the Innofader to get a tighter cut. Did you try this? How does the feel compare to the original Rane faders?

@krisp: how did you make out?

@Phaze: you're the man...

TTL is selling the Rane kits already FYall's info.

i'll preface this by saying that i just got back from the club and i'm a bit drunk. so excuse the unnecessarily long and drawn out following reply...

to answer you question...absolutely. there are individual adjustments for each side of the innofader with regards to slope and cut in distance. basically, it's completely adjustable to whatever your preference is. as far as comparison to the original Rane faders...well...here you go.

had you asked me this even a month ago i would have slapped you where you stood for even uttering such heresy. however, since i've had this fader in my 56 for the last few weeks i have to say that i am actually starting to like it better than the stock faders. let me be clear though...in terms of overall function and design, there is nothing better than the stock Rane faders. if you think about it, magnetic faders are really the best possible option for non-contact potentiometry. they are impervious to dust, smoke, debris, liquids, etc. i mean unless you drop a magnet into it or somehow manage to wedge a large piece of ferrous metal into the fader itself, you are really not going to be able to do anything within reason to cause the fader to malfunction (okay...maybe if you break the sensors off). but the main problem with the Rane faders is the sliding mechanism. i'm not sure why they were designed this way, but the stock Rane magnetic faders slide on 2 thin metal rods that insert into notches on each side of the fader supports. i think a better design would have been a single, thicker rod or beam. anyways, for the most part this does not cause any problems. however, for those of us that have used these faders extensively know that over time this can be problematic. because there is essentially 2 contact points during the travel of the magnet between the 2 sensors, you can actually get the fader to stick if you apply any kind of lateral pressure on the fader. over time this is accentuated and can result in a situation where the fader will stick and not slide smoothly (more pronounced on the upfaders for some reason - probably because of how most DJs fade with these - plus the knob is situated quite high on the metal prong causing an exaggerated fulcrum point (i knew those physics classes were going to come in handy one day))

over time as the plastic slider wears out, the sticking can become worse and eventually makes it difficult to fade smoothly. okay...so what right?? every fader has to wear out at some point right? anyone who is having this problem, hit me up in private and i'll tell you how to fix it. let me just say that Shaun W. is the man with regards to this (wutup S-Dawg!! hahaha)

well...i really haven't answered your original question...how does the feel of the fader compare...

i don't know if it's just me....but i've come to find the stock crossfader on the 56 (and even moreso on the 57 for some reason, although they are supposed to be the exact same faders) to be a bit light. not that it feels cheap by any means (check out the faders on some of the numark mixers if you want to feel some cheap shit). but i prefer a fader with a bit more weight to it. i guess since i used an original Vestax 05 pro for several years before i bought my 56, i got used to a somewhat heavier fader. the Innofader has just a touch more weight to it and thus feels a bit more solid when using it. also, since it slides on a single rail system, there is no way to cause any kind of torquing that might result in "stickage" during its travel.

i guess what i'm trying to say is that over the past few weeks i have become a bit more accustomed to the Innofader and actually prefer its feel to that of the stock faders. that being said, i think the cut and slopes on the stock faders edge the Innofader out (just barely). but for all intensive purposes, i'm keeping the Innofader in my 56 indefinitely.

okay...that's it. i'm going to bed. i hope this was helpful. i'll try and clarify it tomorrow.


oh yeah....fucking Cleveland. and the Lakers....Jesus H. Christ! why can't we ever win in Portland when it counts...



sheesh.

Yo emarx! Question: Can I swap out the line (up and down) faders on my OG AEM-100 with innofaders and set them up for faster cuts? Or better yet, can I adjust the curve on the factory faders?

you can't put innofaders in the upfaders of the aem100 and 100i. not sure about the curve though

@PHAZE - you can adjust the curves on upfaders of the AEM-100i model. If you really want we could do a custom job on the fader cuts knob functions to fix this for you. You've been a big fan...

@feniks - cool thanks for the feedback. Hopefully you read this again when you're less drunk...

I guess what I don't get is you keep mentioning the cuts and slopes on the Rane edge out. You can adjust the Innofader to make the curve as sharp as you want. When we were at NAMM, we actually cranked up the curves to just sharper than the C type curve to get a great cut while allowing for some curve adjustment.

www.innofader.com

On the adapter boards, I erred slightly on the side of making the Innofader curve a bit softer than the Rane curve to make it easier for calibration.

The Innofader also has a dual rail system, but there are tricks to doing it right. The rail contact is triangular - 2 on the top and 1 on the bottom - so you won't get unusual torquing issues. The Innofader has further improvements such as the self-lubricating plastic tension adjustment and ultra smooth rails which helps this even more. The Rane fader long barrel helps to make it feel even, but at the same time exaggerates any stickiness.

I can see you are treading lightly - avoiding confrontation with the Rane fanboys ;)

im a Inofada-Fanboy ;)

@elliot

maybe i'm doing something wrong then. i've played with the adjustments on my innofader and don't get me wrong...i can get a nice sharp cut it and slope. however for some reason if i start out with the fader completely closed and then very slowly slide it to open, i cant seem to get an actual super sharp cut it point but rather a very tiny slope fade still. for all intensive purposes it really doesn't matter because we are talking about a fade that occurs over such a small distance it is essentially a sharp cut in. however, when i compare this with the factor Rane fader, the Rane fader definitely has bit sharper cut. again, maybe it's user error and i just haven't adjusted the pots exactly right. but i've spent over an hour at one point fiddling with the pots, trying every combination i could to see which worked best (and yes i used the online instructions as a guide too). but i just can't get the cut in to be quite like the Rane fader.

that being said, there isn't any cut that i can do on the Rane fader that i can't do just as well on the Innofader. so the point is really moot. but i'm just reporting what i'm seeing/hearing.

Hey Feniks,

The Innofader actually puts a fast fade-in and fade-out at the cut point rather just an on/off switch. On some mixers this will help reduce the popping a bit. I would guess on the Rane, since it already has it's own filtering, you might here a slightly more gradual cut in and cut out when you cross the cut point.

Very observant on your part. Guess the fact it doesn't have an effect on your actual cutting means we're getting a bit too obsessed with semantics...

Thanks again for the feedback!

So, can anybody give a comparison of the Pro X Fade vs Innofader??

My 2 Cents...

i have a vestax pro 05 II and i threw an inno fader in it ... and i feel like i have a new rane $700 dollar mixer the cut is crazy and the curve still works on the mixer so can adjust the cut. and my homie has a studio and it great for recording no static at all when you fade. its pro and only a 120 bills ... trust me just get it.. and save $700.. i do gigs all the time with it. i wish i had effects thou like djm800 with an inno fader that would be crazy.... but when you install it in your mixer put locktight on the screws that that hold the fader in place what i did and it perfect.

whats locktight?? Also so if you use the innofader you can still use the curve control knob on the fader to adjust it? I thought you would have to open it up to adjust it? This changes the ballgame for me

yep.. your curve adjustment still works fine. the initial adjustments have to be made on the fader board itself but once those are set you don;t have to touch them again.

Locktight is like medium glue for metal screws so they don't come loose. Home depot have it in stock. just get it will be one of the best upgrades you've ever done trust me

i thought about glueing the pots too but then that kinda limits that fader to one mixer (i don't do it too often but i'm sure some people swap faders between mixers regularly). also, if the pots are not quite adjusted right and you glue them then you just bought yourself a new fader board. anyways, here's what i came up with as a good alternative that provides good protection for the pots but is removable if you need to readjust (the yellow electrical tape is just to protect the contacts at the end of the board which you don't want coming in contact with any metal on the inside of your mixer)

www.djfeniks.com
www.djfeniks.com
www.djfeniks.com
www.djfeniks.com
www.djfeniks.com
www.djfeniks.com


you can buy this at any hardware store. i think it's called "electronics shrink wrap"to . just cut it the right length, place over the pots/board and use a lighter to heat it a bit.

To all those who have it what curve settings do you have it adjusted to. Im looking into buying one (one the site as we speak) but since im JUST learning to scratch the whole "as much control as possible" aspect looks scary since i dont know much about crossfader curves cut points ect. Is there like a overall normal good setting to have it at??

great pictures feniks. the shrink wrap makes it look all neat and clean!

bez,

i think the point is that the curve adjustments are going to be different depending on what type of mixer you drop it into as well as your personal preferences. i'll go on record and say that you will not regret buying this fader at all. i'd be willing to help you get it installed and adjusted. you can PM me anytime. i'm sure philly would also be willing to help you...and he's def more versed in this fader as he beta tests for the company (and can scratch like a mofo to boot!)

Awsome thanks for the help im def gonna get it...gonna make the order tonight or tomarow so ill prob be hittin ya up with some questions next week

@M.Bezzle: the Innofader default is for a linear curve and a dead space of about 1.5mm on each end. You really shouldn't need to mess with the settings at all to get started. But once you get good you'll get more picky.

@Feniks: Your shrink wrap idea is cool, but what if you want to replace it or move the Innofader to another mixer? How about something that you can change later like a tube with velcro on the ends? Also, just curious what you used to make the tube shrink. I just use the edge of a soldering iron hehe.

bro the locktight is a medium glue to hold it in place. you can still break the seal if u want its just a safty percaution that the screws dont come loose from beatin on that fader if you like to scratch. but removing the fader a lot with f@#$ up the threads on the screws so be careful. just tryin to help ......peace

elliot,

i used a lighter to heat up the shrink wrap. and the nice thing about the shrink wrap is that it is pretty easy to remove. all you need is a sharp knife or a razor blade and the stuff comes right off. a velcro protector would def work although might be a bit more bulkier which could be an issue in some mixers where space is a commodity (ie. some of the A&H mixers).

@brisk

i know all about locktight. i guess i just have a problem putting any kind of glue onto electronics.



you know the other thing nobody has mentioned yet is using a meter to adjust the voltage across each pot to the exactly the right/same value. just thinking out loud...

@emarx thanks thats EXACTLY what I was looking for, im just learning to scratch so i dont really have a personal preferance on settings so knowing the default is good enough to learn on until i develop them is just what i was looking for

just got the innofader installed got t working but the cut in time needs to be adjusted properly does anyone have any tips on how to make it the quickest cut in time i have pretty sharp but not as sharp as my original rane fader thanks alot hope to get ppls feedback soon.

i have the same problem you have. i have the djm 800 but cant seem to get the proper settings for it too cut really sharply.

if i can remember right . i connected it wraped it with electrical tap then with the fader exposed ( out of the mixer )and turned my system on then adjusted it to the cut i wanted. just be carefull dont drop it or let it slip out of your hand. then when i was happy with the cut i turned every thing off. and installed it. make sure you curve is set to the tightest cut on the mixer (personally i cant remember if i did that . ).but hope that helps. im not a pro but it worked out great for me. peace

Feniks: You inspired me to go on a mission to get this Innofader insulation thing simplified. So I went all out and got tons of the heat shrink tubing to do exactly what you did.

www.skratchlounge.com

But now I need to know how you did it so cleanly. I got it to work but it is so, so easy to melt wires in the process! I'm afraid to ask others to do this when it really could cause more harm than good if done incorrectly.

I didn't have a lighter so I used the lowest possible flame on a stove, and held the heat shrink several inches from the fire.

Awaiting your comments. I like your idea but just want to make sure that before we ask everyone in the world to do this, we get good pointers from the man who got this to work first.

Krisp, Beats: On the Innofader proper you can adjust both the cut-in dead space and the curve.
www.innofader.com
www.innofader.com

An easy thing to do is set a slightly sharper curve on the Innofader. If you've already set the cut-in to "No Dead Space" but the Pioneer still seems to be uncooperative, the sharper curve will definitely cause the cut-in points to move closer to the ends, but at the expense of slightly less range to play with on the mixer curve adjustment.

Don't forget to install the X/Y jumper when you do this. The DJM-800 circuit is a mono signal, so the curve needs to be symmetrical on both sides. Without the jumper, adjusting the curve would make one side sharper and the other side smoother.

Let me know how you guys do with this.

emarx i got the innofader to cut the way i like. The innofader is the bomb best fader i ever cut with!

i never got a chance to install it correctly. so i hated it. i have sitting in glove compartment in my car, its been there for 4 months already

man put it in..
you dont know what you're missing!! (no homo)

i think im going to order mine today or monday (bills have been kinda hectic)

sorry elliot...not ignoring you. been meaning to post here just been busy. give me another day and i'll see if i can come up with step by step (no NKOTB) explanation on how to do it. just looking at your pics, one of the problems might have been the material you used. also, i shrunk mine using a lighter applying GENTLE heat (i made sure the flame stayed in constant motion, never letting it contact the material in one spot for too long. admittedly this is harder to do if you are doing it over a stove (much easier to move a small lighter back and forth precisely than it is to move the entire wire/harness assembly over a stove top flame IMO). i think i still have a package or two of the shrink material left over. i'll send you a picture of the package with some details on it so you can try and find something similar in your neck of the woods (i think i purchased it at Radio Shack if i remember right).

completely off topic....you gonna be a NAMM this year again? let me know...got a few things to ask you about...


cheers!

Hey feniks,

No problem doc I know you've got a life ;)

Well here's the thread we did in DJ Forums and we got a good solution using both the heat shrink tube and velcro strips:
www.djforums.com

I appreciate you can do such a good job, but personally I don't like playing with fire in any form, and I imagine that many DJs agree. So we're leaving it up to customers if they'd like to do the heat the tube for a permanent fit or use the velcro for ease of assembly and disassembly.

We're actually shipping this and you should see more info on our website and on Skratchworx soon.

krisp - thanks for your feedback!

beats - let's get this working for you! Please feel free to contact me directly.

feniks - will be at NAMM, see ya there!

I guess im bumpin this thread up. I was watchin some video from this years NAMM and it looks like they had a innofader installed in a DJM 400 which is what i have. It sounds like its hard enough to install in a compatible mixer let alone the 400.

I wanna upgrade to the innofader. Anybody happen to have any experience or tips on installing on the DJM 400

elliot?? where you at dawg?

Hey Kahar,

The DJM400 was our new announcement for this years NAMM show (as well as the DJM909/707). The L brackets for the DJM400 just came in but we'll work on getting installation instructions up.

@feniks dope hanging out with you bro! elliot is en route back to taiwan and will probably need a few days to recover after a crazy week haha

any word on the innojuster? Really looking forward to that!

@cavalry we're starting production within the next few weeks so they should be available pretty soon. the price is not finalized yet, but it won't be anything ridiculous. hope that helps haha, but theres not really much info on it anyways.

Awesome, can't wait. Thanks!

Nice. Any idea on what they retail for off the top of the head?

price for the standard version is $115. however they do have a pro version which was announced this NAMM. pro version is more versatile and designed to fit into any and all mixers...even the DJM400 series. i think i'll defer the pro version price to phil as i'm not sure if the price for that was announced publicly yet.

any idea for the innojuster?

Ok cool. If I got any extra info and tips on how to install on my DJM 400 would be great. I would buy it in a second.

fuck the innofader!! i bought two they both broke on me and blew out my djm 800 twice! i waisted a g! on fixing my mixer twice and buying those stupid faders its a nice cut but it didnt last

Huh?

damn really?? Ive never had a problem with mine, howd they break??

Did you follow the instructions exactly? I've had mine in my DJM800 for over a year and no problems.

im going to take a stab in the dark here and guess that he didnt insolate it with electrical tape when he installed it, thats the only thing i can think of that would possibly cause that level damage

Yeah I hope thats it. I jus gettin hyped up to get one.

ive got one and i love it its leagues better than my stock fader

For the DJM800, you plug the DJM800's 3 pin connector into half of the 6pin Numark Digital connector.

Even though the mixer plugs straight into the UREI KORG connector (which fits perfectly- 3 pins), you do NOT plug it into here.

There are pictures and is clearly stated in bold here.
www.audioinnovate.com

The power on the Urei/Korg connector is reversed. The innofader has a protective circuit which prevents the fuse on the innofader from popping. But the DJM800's fuse is much more sensitive, so it will burn the DJM800's fuse before it even reaches the fuse on the innofader.

The fuses on the DJM800 is pretty inexpensive and just requires a technician to install so I don't know where you "waisted a g" but I'm sorry to hear that.

Hey Philly any DJM400 walkthroughs like the 800?

Hey skyscraper,

The DJM400 kit was just announced at NAMM last week. I don't even think stores have them yet but its only a matter of time until we put up the installation instructions for it!

Sounds good. I'll jus keep on the lookout then.

yes i isolated my innofader like no other it was fine for a few months then blew out my pioneer i loved the cut on it the fader so i bought another and shit happend again so i just went back to the one that came with it and no problems.. now i just use a ttm 57 for scratching and my 800 for mixing house..

oh and also the reason i waisted a g was 2 innofaders + pioneer installation kit =300 + pioneer charges 300 to repair anything on there mixers and i couldnt find anyone in my town that knew how to work on them so i sent it twice and that was 600$

anyone know if this will fit the technics mixer???

What? That DJ1200?

That would be LOVELY....

I know you dog that fader johnny but mine has lasted me for over 5 years still going strong!

Sixxx seems to think its coz I got a european manufactured one!

Man, you have the NEW AND IMPROVED one.

We got version 1.0. (No Service Pack)

2 innofader = 115
+ .................... 115
----------------------------
..... ....................230
2 800 kits = 145
+.....................145
------------------------
.......................... 290
----------------------------------------------
520

pioneer charges 300 to repair anything on there mixers so i sent it twice and that was 600


520+600= 1120

you said you wased 2Gs....1120\2 = 560

Since when is a G = 560??

Why did you divide 1120 by 2?

Oh, and I'm mad that you took the time to create the "+" and dotted lines, and dashes to make it look like you wrote the shit on a chaulk board.

DUMB ASS I SAID A G NOT 2 GS..

*****sits patiently waiting for M-Bez's response*******

***Pops JiffyPop******

lol i satnd corrected, thats that i get for posting smart ass remarks while driving a car lol

Anybody know how the Pro X Fader from Eclectic Breaks compares to the Innofader?

www.eclecticbreaks.com

no comparison IMHO. i started out with Pro X fader in a few of my mixers and ended up switching over to the Innofader as soon as it was available. to me the Pro X seemed stiff and less fluid not to mention that i was able to get it to start crackling (it's just a highly adjustable regular contact fader after all).

trust me....stick with the Innofader.

So wheres the best spot online to buy???? As far as price, customer service and shipping time and all that stuff.

i got mine from agiprodj, good price free shipping no tax delivered quickly, i highly recomend

^^Nice im gonna check that out

Any idea on the price for the innojuster and the drop date? Saw the video on Scratchworx and I need that ish asap! Soo nice.

Ok im gettin ready to order my innofader today for my DJM 400. Im orderin from agiprodj.com . Of course the one for the DJM 400 is the most expensive one. Oh well.... I hope this shit is not hard to install. Im excited to see how different my cuts sound.

i cant speak for the DJM 400 but mine installed SUPER easy on my mixer...i need to open it up again soon cause i think i understand how to configure it better now

But you can't cut.....so.....I mean...well, you know.....

very true but i finally understood the directions enough to know what it was talkin about so ima open it up and see how off my settings are lol

like bezzle, i got mine from agiprodj but i noticed turntablelab carries them as well.

But, if you aren't DOING ANYTHING with it....then what's the .....

lol..

nevermind.....

its $4 more at tutntable lab lol

well just because im not compitant at cuttin dosent mean i dont try to learn how.....mabye my fader settings are the wall seperating me from my lack of skill....i think i have too much cut in space

yea, ttl is my spot tho. i get everything from them. got a few records that should be here today from them actually.

Yeah i noticed that. Thats why im stickin with the no tax and free shippin at agiprodj. If they mess up my order im blamein you Bezzle.

So the equipment would make you a better DJ?

wouldnt scratching on a no bleed fader sound better than on a totallt bled fader? wouldnt be easier to scratch on a fader with a quarter inch cut inpoint than one with a 4 inch cut in point with a slanted slope?

Any discounts code i can use at agipro that anybody knows of???

lol i think youll be good i ordered 2 things from them around christmas time and the were pretty damn fast and accurate shippn out

Sounds good. Im gonna do some diggin for a coupon code first though. Not havein any luck so far though

Sorry everyone been out for way too long.

@Feniks thanks for helping out and even more thanks for covering our NAMM booth at 10:00AM and hanging out since none of us were up by then haha!

@DJkahar aka Skyscraper: We have instructions for the DJM-400 installation on our forum:

www.audioinnovate.com

@dj dy$e man I feel bad you went through so much trouble. I can refer people to repair guys who can do this for far less and I'm even talking to VST in Pasadena CA to help set them up to do installs for DJs. I wish you would have written me directly so I could have saved you the trouble.

Technics mixer I will make a point to check it!!!

i can vouch for VST in Pasadena. good to see you again elliot!

Cool! emarx Im in europe so be sure to check the Technics mixer european version for me, evidently they differ in some way. I love my mixer & im reluctant to change to something else untill I can afford a 57. Ive been saying that since the 57 came out so im pretty sure It wont be until my technics mixer craps out!

When is the innojuster coming out?? Thats the best idea Ive seen in a long time.

Im ready to drop an innofader right now in my xone 2:02, but I do not want the hassle of opening it up and putting it back together until I get the adjustment right. I already spent weeks doing that with the pro x fade it came with, a nightmare! As soon as you release the innojuster Im picking both up.

You don't have to screw it back in everytime. Just leave the fader attached and hanging out of the mixer while you adjust it (the innojuster is pretty cool though).

Perfect timing. I ordered mine the other day and should be here next week. I'll update on how it goes. Much appreciated homie!

Got my fader in the mail on Saturday. Gettin ready to install now. I hope I don't mess it up.

Ok so im not understanding the curve and cut in diagrams listed on the innofader itself. Which way would I turn the screw for the sharpest cut?

Ok so i got my fader installed and i hooked it back up to test. I didn't screw in the face plate so I can easily pop off the top in case i need to adjust the fader. But now different knobs arn't working on the mixer. I hope i did not screw up my mixer.

Any suggestions?

Put the old fader back and see if everything goes back to normal.

^^yeah I just did that. And everything was normal again. Then installed the innofader again and experienced the same issues. No master or cue control. Actual innofader wasn't cutting or working. I also noticed the effects were not working normal either. I thought i followed the instructions from the website exactly. I wanted to use the tester but they didn't have instructions for the DJM to hook up the tester This had turned into all day project.

Well, at least you know you didn't fry your mixer.

That's what I was thinkin. So either they sent me a bad innofader (which I doubt), or I'm doing somethin wrong in installation.

Hey DJKahar,

please email Elliot (sales@audioinnovate.com) or you can catch him on skype if you have it.

^^^I sent a email a few hours ago to that email address. I figure i'll hear from them tomorrow . Hopefully they can give me some more detailed steps.

Yeah he's in Taiwan so the time is off but Elliot is usually really good with emails. Sorry theres nothing I can do from my end..

^^^yeah that explaines why he called at like 10:30 tonight. I got his number and will try and call him tomorrow about it. Thanks for the info by the way.

Right Im really hoping the innofader is that easy to adjust. My experience with the pro x fader was different. For transforming and crabs it was fairly simple to adjust like you mentioned, but for chirps and flares it wasnt. You really need you hand on the record and fader. I kept adjusting it for the same cut in time like my other mixers, but whenever I tried to chirp it was non existent. Sure crabs and transforming sounded fine, but everything else didnt. I then added more cut in time, but then my crabs and transforming sounded funny. It was really hard getting it to that sweet spot where I could do all my scratches. It took a long time. It should have only took a few minutes. The pro x fade is really delicate to adjust for some reason and you have to match each side. Just a pain in the ass. It sounds great now, but its still not as sharp as my 707 or as clean as my 56.

One of my ideas in the past has been to use a potentiometer to adjust the voltage across the innofader pots so that they are the same on both sides. This would allow you to do 2 things...manually adjust one side to your liking, measure the voltage and then set the other side so that it is "exactly" the same. Second, it could allow for a very basic set of universal pot voltages (which would obviously vary depending on what mixer is used). This would allow to adjust both pots right out of the box (to whatever universal setting is appropriate for your mixer) and allow you to plug and play without having to go through all the trial and error of manually adjusting. Just thinking out loud...

Update: I've been talkin to my man Elliot at audio innovate to figure out what the issue was with my DJM 400. We found out I there is an issue with the DJM 400 kits they were sending out. Two wires are mixed around on the connector that connects from the adapter board to the actual innofader. Actually a really simple fix. Elliot said he's glad he talked to me because they are going to have to fix that wire on all future DJM 400 kits. So holler at me if your havin trouble with your innofader and your DJM 400. Im a pro at it now thanks to Elliot. Props to him for helpin me get it fixed quickly. Definitely the man to talk to if you have issues.

Anyway, now im just doing what you guys said above and tweakin it to the way I like it. Definitely alot of trial and error to get the cut you like.

Wow @ you getting a defective kit from the door. Imagine all the DJ's scratching their heads thinking they broke something.

DJJOHNNYM_vSL3 well only 2 made it out the door like that. I got on it right away and reworked our stock not only to fix the wiring, but also we removed the NUMARK DIGITAL connector housing so that customers don't have to sweat with this part easier.

feniks - you can actually just recalibrate the Innofader to make one side cut different from the other.

www.innofader.com

I think the issue you're complaining about - with good reason - is that the TTM 56/57 (and now 68) adapter is a real bitch to calibrate. I'm working on the Innofader Pro to make this an easier process.

Haha because no editing is allowed here, the first post should read:

DJJOHNNYM_vSL3 well only 2 made it out the door like that. I got on it right away and reworked our stock not only to fix the wiring, but also we removed the NUMARK DIGITAL connector housing so that customers don't have to sweat with this part either.

no I know...was just saying that for those who like to have the cut the same (exactly the same) on both sides, one option might be to use a voltage meter to help adjust the pots on each side so that they are identical.

Hey Elliot thanks again for your help. Much appreciated. It's crazy how two little wires that are switched around can make your mixer go haywire. Everything is good now though. Just calibrating right now. Kinda a pain though with the DJM 400. Since I really cant have the actual fader outside of the mixer to adjust while it's powered on. I have to make an adjustment with the faceplate off, then put the face plate back on to test, over and over.

I might just try to test it with the faceplate off when I get home. I shouldn't hurt anything as long as i dont touch any metal.

It seems just recalibrating and checking would be easier. Unless am I missing something here? Most DJs don't have voltage meters. I'm not suprised you do though Doctor!

I'd say if you are going to do this, leave the crossfader plate screwed onto the faceplate, and just mount the assembly for testing without using any more screws. This way everything just pops out. We also intentionally set this up so the Innofader faces down so you can tweak the trim pots without any further disassembly.

Well, I'm glad you caught it in time! I don't want to see you on the cover of Yahoo talkin' about a RECALL like Toyota!

Hey guys, I got my innofader today but am having a really hard time installing it on my djm 400. I have mounted everything up as instructed and plugged the fader input to the numark adapter but am getting no master sound and no fader response. When I used the tester the l.e.d. is showing up red so I guessing i didn't hook up the wiring correctly. When viewing this thread I noticed that the bracket around the numark adapter was removed after the wiring error was corrected. Is this correct? The reason for me asking this is because the numark input on my adapter still have the plastic housing around the pins forcing me to remove it in order to have the mixer fader input connect to the adapter. I am thinking that i might have gotten an old kit for some reason that has the wires reversed. I am already goin crazy with how amazingly smooth the fader is.
Anyone have any ideas on how to get this baby workin?

Hey did you see our instructions here:

www.audioinnovate.com

Remove the Numark adapter socket with the mini-screwdriver. You'll need to wedge it up gradually on both sides.

It also looks like the fader you have doesn't have the blue and grey wires swapped on the Misc Output Adapter. You can swap the wires using the same mini-screwdriver. Once you swap the wires and retest the fader, you should get a green LED.

email me support@audioinnovate.com if you still have trouble.

Any news on the technics mixers yet?

I had that exact same problem. You probably just got a old kit. Carefully swap the blue and grey wires around on the misc output adapter. After I did that it worked perfect. Then it's just a matter of setting your curve.

Emarx might have to give you more detailed instructions on the wire switching part, because if your like me I was nervous about messin something up. But it was surprisingly easy. Hope you figure it out.

one of these days i need to get around to fine tuning my curve and cut in points, i set them up on day one but never went in to fine tune them as ive progressed

***blank stare***

hey ive come a long way...i know what the curve is now!

I've literally been slaving over my innofader because I too noticed that the cut in on mine is not quite the same as on a Rane 57, (I'm using innofader in Numark DXM09).

I can cut REALLLY nicely with the innofader but the only trouble I encounter is when crab scratching. on the Rane I get it solidly and without a problem, but on the innofader not so much... I adjusted the cut-in to holy hell, but am afraid to mess with the curve cause honestly, I don't really know what it does. I assume I might be able to get closer to the Rane cut-in if I adjust the curve.

Can anyone help me? Or am I just not going to achieve the same cutin ever with the innofader? I love the innofader and swear by it , but this issue has me thinking about just getting a Rane 57

p.s: This is basically along the same lines as what Feniks was saying when comparing the cut from innofader vs. Rane

i have the EXACT same problem EXACT same mixer except i messed with the curve to so im sure my curve is all shot to hell lol

Thats the main reason why I wont buy an innofader yet. I had a real hard time adjusting the pro xfade, constantly taking it in and out and having to try to make each side of the crossfader equal.

When the innojuster comes out if ever.. I will get an innofader-
www.youtube.com view

Everyone c'mon chill a bit...

The Innofader has a fully adjustable curves and cut-ins.

Actually the adjustment is not too difficult. For the DXM-09 you should install the X/Y jumper to ensure that both sides have the same cut. Now the cut-in just adjusts the point where the sound cuts in. If you want, you can also adjust the curve on the Innofader to give a sharper cut. The best thing to do is to start in the middle and sharpen the Innofader curve only to the point where you get an on/off cut with the mixer set to the sharpest point.

The only thing the Innofader can't do is if the mixer itself has a slow response to the Innofader then the Innofader can't magically override the slowness of the mixer. The Innofader has a max 3msec delay and 2msec response time which is pretty fast. One key is that within 2msec, the Innofader will completely adjust so by itself will not have any decay effect. From what I remember, the DXM series has an 8msec exponential response so the mixer itself might have some decay.

Ironically, with the new Innofader Pro, even on the cheapo Numark M2 you will likely get a very good sharp cut because there's no VCA or digital circuitry to slow things down!

By the way, the Innojuster is already in production as is the Innofader Pro. We just need time to get all of the promo material going.

could you clarify the X/Y Jumper part? Basically does that mean keep the plastic part in and do not remove it? hahaha,

I'm good with guitars and amps... But I'm still figuring out mixers, sorry

Leave the X/Y jumper in for the DXM mixers.

I also think you should try this with the DXM because from the testing I did I don't recall any audible decay problem. I've had many customers use the Innofader on the DXM with very good results.

Can you put an innofader in the Rane 68?

Im lovin my innorfader in my DJM 400. But I am too strugglein with the adjustment for my crab scratches. I have a really sharp cut. But I notice when I get down close to my mixer and slowly open up the crossfader the sound doesn't come in till about the second line on the mixer. So I guess about 2 millimeters. It's good for the rest of the scratches, but with the crab it would be better to get sound by the first line or 1 millimeter mark. Does that make sense to everybody??

Yea, so what I got from emarx was that once you get the cut-in adjusted as close as possible you have to adjust the curve and the curve setting should help you get that closer cut. I'm gonna try messing with it today, I'll post some results!

i would love it is someone who knows what their doing who has a dxm 09 could take a picture of their settings. Mine works find but i want to know where mine are compared to most. Also you DO lose ability to adjust curve from mixer when using innofader right?

I'll take some pics, and yes the curve adjust on the mixer gets disabled when you plug in the innofader.

Should have word later today!

still playing with it about an hour later...

I'll keep yall updated

I keep getting a sweeeett cut on one side but then the other keeps getting fucked up, I'm getting real frustrated.

There is another setting that gives me decent cut on both sides, but its not like the best one that I get with the first setting.

the best setting that messes up the cut in on the other side is all the way to no dead space (1oclock) for cut in and about 6oclock for curve. **My fader has the metal pots, NOT the blue ones**

For the ok setting that allows both sides to cut evenly, its 2oclock cutin and 3/4 oclock curve

alright, I've literally been obsessing over this innofader and trying everything and here is my verdict as of now...

I got the cut probably just as good if not nicer than the Rane 57 on the DXM09, however the cut was only that nice on the right side, for some reason on the left the cut in was so big that it was almost till I reached the center before any sound cut in....

I literally tried everything, including pressing the little button to set the cut ins and nothing changed. The settings for this nice ass cut-in was:
1 oclock cut in(as far turned to deadspace where it doesnt turn anymore)
6 oclock curve

The only setting where I have been able to get both cutin sides equal is from the post above, but I still couldnt crab HALF as nice as when on the optimal setting I just mentioned that offsets the cutins for some reason...

SOOOO FRUSTRATING!!! I'm gonna keep trying tomorrow, its 4 am and time for me to pass out

aight, here is the conclusion to my frustration... I kept getting mixed results time and time again, first one side had good cut in and the other got fucked up, then I took out the X/Y jumper and got a decent cut with the X/Y jumper out but still not as nice as with it in and with cut in at no dead space, and curve at 6oclock.

I also kept having issues with the cut in everytime I moved the damn thing as I was working on it cause of the wires I assume... Anyways I FINALLY got it to a pretty nice cut that's probably just as nice as you would get on the Rane, I'd say it's about 98-99% as close as the Rane's.

The setting I finished on was cut in all the way on dead space (1oclock, won't go further) and curve on about 3:30oclock. The weird part is that I couldn't get this setting to work when I tried it like 100 times before, because one side kept playing sound (aka bleeding) so for some miracle, possibly God having pity on my soul for wasting a whole day turning a knob over and over it finally worked. Maybe others won't have this issue and it will work first time, idk, give it a try and let me know.

So end in point: Nicest setting I thought and was 100% like the Rane IF not nicer was cut in 1oclock (Maxed out, doesn't go further) and curve at 6oclock.

The setting I settled for was curve at 1oclock and curve at about 3:30, it's still better than I've ever had with the innofader yet, and from my experience I'd say again, its about 98-99% as nice as Rane, which is totally fine with me. I might not be able to crab 100% as nice as with Rane, but the way I see it is I'll have better practice for when I get one and whenever I use other mixers, so its cool with me! haha Plus let's be real its literally VERY BARELY different, it only matters if you want to be mega anal or a perfectionist about it.

Case in point, I LOVE my innofader and can cut like very well with it, especially old skool cuts, which are my favorite anyways, I wish I didn't have to mess with my innofader as much but, whatever, I guess it was worth the experience... I'll still probably get a Rane just because I've always wanted one, but not at all because of the crossfader. Hope this helps!

P.S: I would totally be down for getting a Innojuster to test out... Just saying, I'm a big innofader supporter and would really appreciate it! hahaha

@Cavalry - it seems from what you are saying you did the calibration incorrectly.

I've added some clarifications to the instructions which should help:

"NOTE: To make this work correctly there are 2 key points to remember:
1) When pressing SW1, make sure to press and hold it for about 1/2 second. This will ensure the Innofader has time to calibrate the endpoints.
2) When sliding the Innofader from one side to the other, do a gradual slide taking about one second. This allows the Innofader to properly calibrate the center position."

So are you saying I should be able to have the cut in the same at both sides with cutin at 1oclock and curve at 6oclock ( The setting that I couldn't get)?

This is what the cut in looked like for this setting ---I--C-----I (c=Center, I=Cutin)

I tried pressing SW1 like a hundred times, but I guess I can try your method.

yea, the cut in got SLIGHTLY better after trying this on the optimal setting 1oclock/6oclock Now its more like --I---C-----I but still you can see the right side is offset for some reason...

Maybe I missed something. Whats the SW1 your talking about pressing in?

It's the small black round button on the adaptor board

Oh damn. I didn't know about that. What is the purpose of that button then?

to establish where the ends of the fader should be aka I-----C-----I the I=complete end or sound from only one side.

Am I the only one here who really doesn't have a need for the innojuster? I mean i've installed the innofader in a xone V6 and in my original 56 and both times I've had to do very little adjustments to get the curve the way I liked. Plus...the curve adjustments on the mixers work just fine. For me at least, the innojuster would just be some extra wires sticking out of my mixer begging to get accidentally pulled out.

That being said, I played with the innojuster at NAMM this year and for those of you having calibration problems, it will cut your calibration times down immensely.

Now once again....and just shout it right out if you know the answer, don't be shy...can you put an Innofader in the 68?

Yea, I don't mind pulling my innofader out either and agree, but the only reason I want the innojuster is because I was being an idiot and literally am at the brink of having completely stripped screws on my mixer face plate.... oops. hahaha

68 compatibility is interesting...

Hmm I did not know about that. So what would be the steps on useing the SW1 button?

Go to the end of one side, press the button, slowly go to the end of the other side of the crossfader and press the button one more time. Thats it!

Ah damn. That might solve my problem i've been having, with my sound not comming in until the second line or 2 millimeters in on my crossfader, no matter how much i adjust. So would you do that first before setting your curve and cut in and out?

Yea, this is the first thing you want to do

Ok cool. For some reason i never did that when I installed it. I assume everything has to be turned on and connected when I do this. Now I can't wait to get home from work and try this out.

yea, power on when you press the button, then after your done, power off and unplug the cord from the adaptor board.

In case you dont get this (I didnt the first time) the cord that hangs off the adaptor board its only got 2 wires running into a plug (black and yellow I believe) HAS to be plugged into the fader (Slot left of the pots) and THEN you press the button.

^^^Sounds good man. I'll mess around with it this eve.

Ok so last night I was tweaking my adjustments. On the right side I got a great cut in. About .5mm. But with that setting, when I would move the crossfader to the left the sound would not cut out at all. So then I tweaked it again. Got a real good cut in on the left side, again about .5mm. But then the right side was now about 1 to 1 1/2mm. I'd like to have that .5mm on each side. What am I doing wrong??

Sounds really similar to the problem I was having... What were your cutin and curve settings? Just give me the "oclock" for simplicity, also are your pots (The cutin/curve adjusters) the metal or blue ones?

The blue adjusters. Curve was turned all the way to the right at the sharpest about 4 oclock. Cut in was turned to the right between 3 and 4 oclock. So with that setting im getting about .5mm cut in on the left. And 1 to 1 1/2 mm on the right side. Theres gotta be a way I can get that .5 on each side.

It seems your putting the curve at a "Bottom Cut" did you try the "Linear B Type Curve" at 12oclock? That might be best.

When you set it there, do the SW1 button thing one more time on each side for good measure. Let me know what happens. Usually on c curves or a curves one side gets offset, at least for me it always did

No I don't think I tried that. I'll try it out tonight. Oh yeah and I messed with the SW1 button thing. Not sure if it did anything or not. It's my understanding that when that button is pressed it stores that setting for each side. I tried that last night and didn't get it to work.

Yea, it is supposed store the setting, but did you plug in the 2 wire adaptor thing into the fader on the far left before you pressed the button? The mixer has to be on as well when you do this. The best way to tell if it's working is have audio going on both TT and when you go to one side you should only hear the one, but if you press the button then you will hear the other side come in for a split second.

with the cut as sharp as you have it, the curve seems like it should be optimal at 12oclock, thats where it was AMAZING for me, but I had the same issue of the other side having a huge cut in... Let me know if you can get it to work though, it could just be me or my mixer, who knows?

Aw damn i forgot the 2 wire adapter. I'll try that again tonight. And I'll try your setting. I'll update tomorrow.

Hey Cavalry thanks for helping out!

@Skyscraper please let me know how you make out.

@feniks actually the thing that sparked the Innojuster idea was the fact that the Innofader Pro is designed to work on some low cost analog mixers which rarely have either curve or cut-in adjustments. Actually cut-in adjustments are pretty rare on mixers overall and even the 56 doesn't have them. It just makes on-the-fly adjustments that much easier and eliminates the need for back and forth adjustment.

About 68 compatibility, I'd imagine since Rane's using the same fader they've used for years that the Innofader will still work. That is if you have any money left over after buying the 68 to get an Innofader!

No problem Elliot! I appreciate your help as well, as for the reason the cut-ins are off with a linear b type curve on the dxm09 is that weird? Like I said it works great at about 3:30 oclock so closer to a c type curve but I can't get it at 6oclock. According to the manual the curve suggestion is wither 2:30 or 3:30 so I figured it was right anyways what I had. (Could you clarify what the curve suggestions mean on the manual in terms of Curve A/B? I know its about the pots, but which is which, I have the metal ones)

i dont get how an cross with 90% angles can be in a 2:30 position??

I don't get what you mean, can you clarify? Sorry Bezz, haha

all good, you have the lil pot screw thing with has a - and a -> and theres a 90 degree angle in the middle....if the hands on the clock are at 2:30 they are not at a 90 degree angle...theres a 90 degree angle at 3:30 but not 2:30 or 1:20

i also dont see where you get the :30 from when theres no 6' position, and the arrow cant go straight down>?

I added an innofader to my studio mixer (vestax 06), very pleased with it. Didn't really need to calibrate it too much.

Well kinda worked on mine last night. Had to unwrap my misc board so I could hook up the black and yellow wire to the J1 on the innofader so I could use the SW1 button to save the cut in on each side. I turned my DJM 400 on slid the fader to the left, and left about .5mm and pressed the button. Slid the fader to the right and left .5mm pressed the button. When I hooked everything back up I didn't notice a difference. Still had the .5mm cut in on the left. 1 to 1 1/2 on the right. Those millimeters make a difference on how clean your cuts sound.

Not sure if I just left out a simple step or what.

@Skyscraper what you should do is the following:

slide the fader all the way to the left and press the button. Do not leave any space!

slide the fader all the way to the right and squeeze it against the side an extra .5 to 1mm, and press the button. This will reduce the dead space on the right side

Let me know how this works for you.

Elliot

I don't see any mention of it working on a Realistic....

@emarx

I was planning on getting an innofader for my DJM 800. ANy chance I can just get you to pre-program it and then ship it to me. I'm slightly concerned with some of the issues that I have been reading about in this thread.

Lazy^^^

@TOGTFO what do you want preprogrammed on the Innofader? I haven't heard of the imbalance issue on the DJM-800. The standard factory programming is balanced between the left and right and from what I'm reading above the imbalances are caused by mixer circuit issues or mistakes in the recalibration.

@Cavalry I suggest you do the same calibration procedure to fix the imbalance. It sounds like the mixer itself has a different voltage threshold on the left vs. right side of the crossfader.

hay feniks & emarx,

got a great cheap insoloation idea :)
Mighty Fix It
www.mightyfixit.com|sm|go

Ok sounds good. After I do that, do I have to turn the power off on the mixer and power it back on or anything?

@

You can test the calibration before powering off. Just to make sure though yeah you can power off and on to make sure the calibration works.

@BuddyLove: We got the isolation thing under control. It's pretty much the same as asking DJs to use electrical tape and it's a messy solution. We include tubes pre-cut to 105mm that just slip right over the boards for isolation. All of our production has it now, and I even add the tubes to B-stock for resale

cool!!
say that item on Tv and thought of the innofader isolation..

have a question Elliot.
where can i order some more small fader lube with the nozzle straw extender (Wow def a No Homo on that Quote) that comes with the innofader. i cut the top of of the lube bottle to far down and the straw fell inside the tube and i dont want to try and lube my fader in the small lube portion and get to much inside the fader & possibly damage it.

@BuddyLove sure email me your address support@audioinnovate.com and I'll send you one.

anyone know if the innofader will fit the PMC-05ProIV

Yes it does

wow..missed this some how??

Elliot,
ill pm you

I have my innofader in the 05proIII and love it. :)

Actually, I read that wrong. I thought you meant the pro III, the new pro IV isn't out yet..

ya it comes out in 9 days, thats why im asking

The innofader is sweet on a djm 800 can't complain and the s120's are like glue to the vinyl.

s795.photobucket.com

Killin those chirps

Elliot where ya at?
havnt heard anything back yet?

he's been swamped with getting the innofader pro ready and now shipping. i would email him again

yeah man.... I just emailed with him. They are working on this master list and getting people to test an innofader pro in a plethora of different mixers. Im suppose to report back to him about this old Vestax mixer I have...

whoa!!
i want in on that list :)

+1

inofader people if you need someone to run tests on a NUMARK DXM 09 hollatchaboy

True that. Pioneer DJM 400. Im down to test some faders out.

technics sh-ex1200 also down to test!

Vestax 06 here

Realistic 32-1200B Present

quite the interest here, but the innofader pros are shipping already. :)

What's the difference between the regular one's and the pros?

that would be some dope ass s!@# there!!!

www.innofader.com

basically you dont have to tweak as much as the original. I got my hands on one a while back by PM elliot. rocking it on Xone 02 (original, not the wack ass one with graffitti....lol)

Seen the site and looks like promising. Props to Elliot Marx and Audio Innovate on the fader ! Oh I have the innofader. :)

the innofader pro comes with the adapter plates/boards that you previously had to buy separate. see the link that guiayo posted for which one is recommended, both are the same feel, just the pro fits more mixers


peace to rugged one, it was nice meeting ya in NYC!

The same here gearing up some money to head out to NAMM this year. Crossing my fingers.

can I carpool with you Rugged? lol.

HHHMM Gonna put you on the plane as a stowaway ! LOL !!

Ill run out and hold onto the front wheel of the plane as it takes off.... Hopefully the wheel cabin is pressurized. lol

LOL !!! Oh no !